The Incredible History of Malbec Wine

This is the history of Malbec wine. Or how a grape from France became the most famous wine from a South American country. So, in this article, we will tell you the history of Argentina’s wine insignia. How did it come about? How did it come to South America? Why did it triumph and prevail in the Argentine vineyards?

Malbec was born.

The original French name of this type of grape is “Côt” or “Auxerrois”. But where is Malbec from? There are many theories. According to the first, the Romans brought the Cots to the French commune of Cahors around 50 BC. This town expanded the cultivation of the vine throughout Europe at the time of the famous Empire.

On the other hand, the second hypothesis says that it is a native strain of the Franco-German coastal region on the banks of the Rhine River. Moreover, a third position tells that the Malbec grape comes from the old French province of Quercy, close to Cahors, near the Pyrenees, in southwestern France.

Finally, it’s also said that this grape owes its name to the Hungarian grower called Malbeck. He’d be the first to cultivate it in Cahors and spread it to the rest of France. Then the name Malbek was deformed, replacing the “k” with the “c”. This was possibly done to allude to the French expression “mauvais bec” (something like “bad mouth”) due to the harsh and bitter taste of this grape.

Another interesting fact is that this variety is the result of a genetic cross between two types of grapes: the Magdeleine Noir grapes de Charentes and Prunelard N (an old variety from the Gaillac area). Besides, during the Roman Empire, Cahors wine enjoyed an excellent reputation, and this lasted for a few more years.

Malbec becomes popular.

In the Middle Age, King Henry II of England married the French duchess Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152. So, he encouraged commercial relations between the two countries. Malbec arrived in England, and  French wine become famous. It was popularly known as the “black wine”. Cahors was renowned as one of the best winemaking regions from the Middle Ages until the late 19th century.

But Malbec was not only famous in England. Peter the Great (Peter I), Tsar of Russia, went down in history as the great reformer of Russia. He was the one who brought Russia to modernity, incorporating this country into Europe. But this czar will also be remembered for introducing French Malbec during his reign (1682-1725). It’s said that the Tsar appreciated Cahors wine because the doctors had prescribed it to cure his ulcers. On the other hand, the Russian Orthodox Church began to use this wine in their ceremonies. Years later, in 1740, the importation of Malbec was encouraged thanks to a commercial agreement between France and Russia.

Phylloxera destroyes French vineyards

Although this grape spread rapidly around France, around 1860, it was attacked by an aphid called Phylloxera that destroyed most vineyards. However, some countries like England had already gotten used to drinking Malbec. This was essential for the appreciation of this wine in the rest of the world. And a couple of years later, Argentinian Malbec would develop on that basis.

On the other hand, First World War and the Great depression helped to devastate the French wine industry.  Besides, in 1956 a hard frost damaged the rest of the vineyards. This is why French growers decided to cultivate other types of grapes. But a couple of years later, grapes were replanted. And  Malbec went back to France,  in the region of Cahors.

Malbec  arrives in Argentina

Luckily, before the insect pest attacked the vineyards, something crucial would happen in our story. In the middle of the 19th century, French agronomist Michael Aimé Pouget had to be exiled because he was persecuted by Napoleon for political reasons. So, Pouget migrated to South America. And he took with him some Malbec grapes. At first, Pouget migrated to Chile around 1840. But there he met the Argentine legislator Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, who was promoting winemaking in those days.

So, Sarmiento hired Pouget to carry out the direction of the Quinta Normal in Mendoza, Argentina. This project was based on the French model. And its goal was to incorporate new grape varieties to improve Argentine viticulture. Then, on April 17, 1853, the project to create the Quinta Normal and a School of Agriculture was presented to the Provincial Legislature. Finally, this project was approved on September 6 of that same year. For this reason, we celebrate World Malbec Day on April 17.

Pouget noted that the Malbec grape was particularly well suited to the Mendoza terroirs. His results were superior to those obtained in France. Besides, in those days, French winemakers used Malbec grapes in small percentages to colour wines. Its expansion in the local vineyards was unstoppable, growing year after year its volume to the total planted area. Pouget stayed in Argentina to share his knowledge. And he spread the vine in Mendoza until he died in 1875.

Moreover, thanks to Italian and French immigrants, viticulture grew exponentially. Malbec adapted too well to the Argentine terroir, especially in the region of Mendoza, near to Andes Mountains. From that moment, its popularity didn’t stop growing. And it became one of the most famous Argentine wines ever.

Summary

Argentine Malbec nowadays

• Mendoza province is the biggest Malbec producer. It concentrates almost 86% of the volume made in Argentina. The second province is San Juan, with 6.6% of production, followed by Salta with 3.29%.
• In 2020, more than 372 million kilograms of Malbec grapes were harvested in Argentina. This means a growth of more than 50% in the last decade.
• During 2020, almost 129 million litres of Malbec were exported, reaching an annual turnover of US$373 million.
• 119 countries received Argentine Malbec in 2020, with the United States, the United Kingdom and Brazil being the main destinations.

To sum up, this wine comes originally from France,  but it owes its popularity to Argentine producers. Nowadays, Argentina is the leading producer of Malbec in the world, whereas France is in second place.